Festive Baking: Portuguese Custard Tarts

Christmas Baking

November 18th 2010 in Christmas Baking by Anne

It’s mid November and by now I don’t see any reason why I should hold off any longer from indulging in pre-Christmas activities!

Let the festive baking begin!

I can’t wait to bake all those delicious treats that make this season so amazing: from cinnamon stars and Lebkuchen to mince pies and my legendary Stollen (watch this space!). Joy is upon us!

Every year I make these classics, but I also try and expand my repertoire. So when this month’s Delicious magazine arrived in the post I got very excited. The whole issue is dedicated to Christmas food, and I’ve bookmarked many pages with post-it notes. I always find it quite tough to decide what to make first from my cookery magazines, everything looks just too tempting and good. In the end I often decide to start with the one recipe that enables me to push my culinary skills.

So this time it had to be these festive Portuguese custard tarts.

Portuguese custard tarts had been on my “to-make” list for a long time. I just love these flaky pastry cases filled with oozing custard goodness! To make them festive, this recipe uses a filling of mincemeat.

“Mincemeat?!” I hear many people think! Yes, mincemeat. It has nothing to do with minced meat. At all. This über British Christmas staple is made of a mix of currants, nuts, apple, alcohol and spices. Just lovely. It is the traditional filling for Mince Pies – those xmas shortcrust tarts that invade Britain during the festive season.

If you can’t get hold of mincemeat in your country you can either make it yourself (here’s a recipe that looks good to me) or if you don’t really like currants, why not just add some cinnamon and nutmeg into the custard?! That should give it some festive flavour too.

As for the custard- don’t be scared! Making custard is super easy! I’d never made it before and I was extremely surprised to find out how astonishingly simple it is! Just mix all your ingredients over a bain marie, stir for a few minutes et voilà: you get a lovely vanilla custard, which is miles better than any store-bought version. Come on, give it a try! And if you have any excess custard, you can just eat it with a spoon of mincemeat – pure indulgence! ★

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Scones for the perfect Afternoon Tea

Doughs, Yeast Breads and Viennoiserie

November 10th 2010 in Doughs, Yeast Breads and Viennoiserie by Anne

Is there anything more British than afternoon tea?! Vintage crockery, old-school teapots and a three-tier cakestand full of goodies – from finger sandwiches to cakes, pastries and of course the legendary scones! I love scones. Biting into these buttery goodies is one of the niceties of living on this island.

As a passionate hobby baker arriving in the UK, I obviously had my go at making scones. It ended in a total disaster. The normally fluffy teacakes turned out like little rock-solid stones! Unbelievably embarrasing. That’s when I realized that the whole magic about scones lies not in their simple yet fulfilling taste, but in their texture. This buttery crumbly consistency is essential to a proper scone.

So after my initial failure at making scones I didn’t really feel like messing up another batch. No competitive spirit, no proving myself – I’d secretly given up on ever making perfect scones. Yes, I had shrugged it off as one of those things – alongside with über-perfect macarons and proper sourdough bread – that I just wouldn’t ever master. Fine. No problem. No one’s gonna find out anyway.

But then… I got this commission for writing an article on afternoon tea. Alongside explaining the concept and listing some nice places in London, I also had to include a recipe for – scones! I felt hot and cold flushes rushing through my body. Damn, just when you think you’ve managed to conceal something it catches you in bright daylight.

So, the recipe testing began.

Now let me tell you, it really isn’t as hard as I thought! In fact, all you need to watch is your kneading! Knead the dough like a bread or pizza dough and you’re doomed! Gently mix it and knead the dough very briefly for a few seconds and you’re onto a winner!

So, trust me and leave those frustration work-outs for another dough that requires some tough love. These scones are all about gentleness and care. ★

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Chicory Tarte Tatin with Feta

Pies, Quiches + Savoury Cakes

November 4th 2010 in Pies, Quiches + Savoury Cakes by Anne

I sometimes wonder why Chicory is not more of a beloved vegetable. It certainly has got the potential to rival the likes of leeks and lettuce. I have a feeling that people are often put off by Chicory’s bitterness, unfortunately so. They don’t know what they’re missing!

When I was little we regularly had chicory – or chicon as I know it. Most often my mum would prepare a chicory and apple salad – the sweetness of the apple would perfectly balance the bitterness of the chicon.  On other occasions we’d have a chicon gratin, covered in a thick bechamel sauce with slices of cooked ham and handfuls of cheese on it. Heaven.

I’ve never really come across much chicory in the UK. But my little fruit and veg shop up the road can be trusted to always surprise me with delights I’d nearly forgotten about! So when I caught sight of some chicory heads my heart jumped with joy! All the delicious dishes I could make with them, my head started racing. I settled on variations of the two dishes I loved from home: I made a chicory and beetroot salad, which was absolutely great except for the fact that the chicon turned out bright pink once it touched the beetroot. I also decided to bake with the chicons, but I instead of making my mum’s cheesy gratin I wanted to add a crunchy pastry dimension to my chicons. The idea for a Tarte Tatin was born.

I don’t know what is going on with me at the moment or what my body is trying to tell me, but I’ve been eating a hell of a lot of feta lately! Feta with butternut squash, feta in a savoury baklava, feta with beetroot – it must be because it’s the perfect ingredient to combine with autumn flavours.

So when I designed this Tarte Tatin in my mind, I decided it would need some feta. You see, once the chicoree is baked, it fully loses its bitterness and turns buttery in flavour, almost comparable to cooked leeks. It’s astonishing how versatile this vegetable is! So I figured that the mellow flavour of the chicon could do with a slight punch, a cheesy punch, a feta punch!

Just a quick word about Tarte Tatins. I am well aware of a Tarte Tatin phobia existing in many households. I myself suffered from this condition for a long time. Until I discovered that it’s as easy as pie (literally). All you need is a round cake tin! Forget the heavy ovenproof pans (if you’re blessed with one, use it by all means!), just use what you have! You can prepare the base – caramel and caramelizing of the chicory – in a heavy-bottomed pan, and then just transfer the whole lot over into a round cake tin. Just make sure you catch most of the caramel, otherwise it turns out quite diappointingly uncaramelized. But for the rest, easy peasy!

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Fig Cakes with Orange Blossom Water

Cakes + Teacakes

October 27th 2010 in Cakes + Teacakes, Cupcakes + Muffins by Anne

I figured it’s been a while since I last posted a cake recipe, so I decided to take action. Never mind that it’s gone totally freezing and horrible in the UK and the thought of a warming oven sounds like a very reasonable idea. And oh, that comforting baking smell! I really think that the smell of freshly baked goods has a damn fine psychological effect – it must trigger some kind of happiness pheromones or whatever you call them!

In fact, I once had a housemate asking me to specifically bake when we’d have flat viewings, so that people would get a favourable impression of the premises… And it worked.

Now that I think of it, I have a hunch that I should get together with an estate agency and be paid to bake in flats that are a tough sell. I guarantee that would instantly turn their luck around! Anyone in the housing business reading this? Get in touch! Haha!

Right, so over to this week’s recipe. As you might notice, I’m still in fig land and making the most of their season!

I’ve only ever baked with dried figs – adding them to stollen and fruit loaves, but never actually used fresh figs in a cake. So, I’ve decided to make a very classic buttery cake base but give it a twist by adding orange blossom water to it.

It’s not that far fetched when you think that orange blossom water and figs are both used in Middle Eastern cuisine. And it worked, the combination is really nice. The pungeant perfume of the orange blossom is mellowed down by the buttery cake, and the crunchy texture of the figs’ popping seeds contrasts well with the softness of the cake sponge. A very pleasant recipe indeed! ★

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